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Everything you want to know about Hyaluronic Acid

February 12 2024 – Olivia Shaw

Cosmetics 04 2023 Hyaluronic acid Marina Miracle

Marina Engervik on hyaluronic acid in Cosmetics

Our founder, Marina Engervik, regularly writes professional articles for the Norwegian industry magazine Kosmetikk. Here is an article she wrote that covers everything you want to know about hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid has become a real hero ingredient in the skin care industry. But what exactly is hyaluronic acid? And does it really work as well as the manufacturers want it to? Read on if you want to learn more about the popular hyaluronic acid and whether it really lives up to its reputation!

But first; What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide in the body, a type of carbohydrate, which helps to maintain healthy and hydrated skin, elasticity in connective tissue, flexible joints, moist eyes and much more. Hyaluronic acid thus has a unique ability to bind and retain water molecules and is found naturally in our bodies.

The story behind hyaluronic acid

In 1934, biochemist Karl Meyer and his assistant John Palmer discovered hyaluronic acid in the vitreous humor of cattle eyes. This was the beginning of the research that was to reveal the structure and function of hyaluronic acid. During the 20th century, hyaluronic acid was found in various tissues and fluids in both animals and humans. It turned out to have clinical applications, especially in eye surgery, treatment of joint diseases and aesthetic medicine. Medical studies have also discovered hyaluronic acid's role in everything from fertilization and the formation of embryos to wound healing, aging processes and our immune system. The discovery of hyaluronic acid has had a major impact on medicine and science.

The use of hyaluronic acid in skin care products began in the 2000s, but it is impossible to point to one particular person or company as the very first to use it in skin care. Several cosmetic companies and dermatologists began to include hyaluronic acid in skin care products because of this research documenting hyaluronic acid's ability to bind moisture and improve skin hydration.

How is hyaluronic acid used?

Hyaluronic acid has become increasingly popular in skin care due to the many benefits it offers, including increased hydration, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, and improved skin elasticity. Today, hyaluronic acid is a common ingredient in a wide range of skin care products and is used by many well-known brands worldwide.

Since the use of hyaluronic acid in skin care has grown over time, it is difficult to attribute this development to a single inventor or company. It has been the result of research, innovation and a growing understanding of the benefits this ingredient has for the skin.

Hyaluronic acid is used both in skin care, in fillers and in medical treatments. Hyaluronic acid is either produced synthetically or it can be fermented. And to make hyaluronic acid a little more complicated, there are also several different main types of hyaluronic acid and below that again several variations and subcategories of hyaluronic acid.

Skin care: Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient in many skin care products, and is often used in serums, eye creams and face creams. These products claim to provide instant hydration to the skin and can help reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid is also found in products for eczema, irritated skin, sensitive, dehydrated and very dry skin.
Hyaluronic acid is a versatile ingredient in skin care products and actually suits all skin types because hyaluronic acid is naturally present in the skin of all of us.

Hair care: The use of hyaluronic acid in shampoos, conditioners, hair treatments and other hair care products is becoming increasingly popular. Hyaluronic acid preserves moisture in hair and scalp, which can prevent dry hair, strengthen hair strands and make hair soft and shiny.

Dermal Fillers: Hyaluronic acid can be injected directly into the skin using fillers treatments to add moisture, volume, reduce wrinkles and improve facial contours.

Medical: Hyaluronic acid is also used in treatments for osteoarthritis, as pain treatment in joints and in eye drops for dry eyes. There is also extra highly concentrated hyaluronic acid which is used in plastic surgery and body fillers.

Dietary supplements: Hyaluronic acid can also be obtained as a dietary supplement. It then comes in the form of a capsule or powder and those who sell this claim that eating hyaluronic acid will support the skin from the inside and prevent premature aging of the skin.

5 Different main types of hyaluronic acid

  1. Low molecular hyaluronic acid: This type has a lower molecular weight and is quickly absorbed into the skin. It is used in skin care products that claim to penetrate deeper to provide moisture and reduce fine lines. Also used medicinally, for example in wound treatment and in eye drops.
  2. High-molecular hyaluronic acid: With a larger molecular weight, this helps to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. It is used in skin care products that provide long-lasting moisture and improve skin elasticity.
  3. Ultra-low molecular hyaluronic acid: With an even smaller molecular weight than low molecular hyaluronic acid, this is quickly absorbed into the skin. It is used in skin care products that penetrate deep into the skin to repair wounds and damaged tissue and provide deep hydration.
  4. Reticular hyaluronic acid: Has a linear or branched structure between the hyaluronic acid molecules. This type of hyaluronic acid is often used in dermal fillers to add volume and smooth out wrinkles and fine lines.
  5. Cross-linked hyaluronic acid: Cross-linked hyaluronic acid is modified to contain cross-links between the hyaluronic acid molecules, giving a more intertwined and gel-like structure. It is often used in fillers to shape facial contours and provides long-lasting results. Also used as a medical treatment for osteoarthritis to relieve pain and improve joint function.

And finally; is hyaluronic acid really that good?

We have seen that hyaluronic acid is used extensively both medically and in skin care, and we can easily take this for good fish and conclude that hyaluronic acid is really good stuff. But I love seeing clinical studies that prove if what is claimed about a type of ingredient is really true. An incredible amount of research has been done on hyaluronic acid, precisely because it is used in medicine, and there are also many exciting results. One of the studies I read, which was done by professors and doctors in dermatology in 2021, I took extra notice. In this study, they had a serum that only contained a simple base and hyaluronic acid.

The research objective of the study was to assess how effectively hyaluronic acid could improve the skin's moisture level and condition. The study included 40 women aged 30-65 and all with different skin types. All used hyaluronic acid twice daily.

The study shows that immediately after application of hyaluronic acid, the skin's moisture increased by as much as 134%. This indicates the ability of hyaluronic acid to instantly add a significant amount of moisture to the skin. This increase in skin moisture was also maintained over time, with an increase of 55% after 6 weeks.

But it wasn't just the humidity level that improved. At week 6, the study showed impressive results in all assessment categories, including increased smoothness (64%), plumpness (60%), moisture (63%), reduced fine lines (31%) and wrinkles (14%), as well as an improvement in the general skin condition (43%).

Furthermore, the study shows that hyaluronic acid was well tolerated and did not cause any form of skin irritation. This is good news for all of us with sensitive skin who want to use an ingredient in our skincare routine that can really make a difference.

The results of the study prove that hyaluronic acid is indeed a wonderful ingredient in skin care and that hyaluronic acid certainly lives up to its good reputation!

Marina Miracle products containing hyaluronic acid

We use hyaluronic acid in our products, which have been developed to provide extra moisture to the skin. In these products, we use both high molecular and low molecular hyaluronic acids. You get hyaluronic acid in these Marina Miracle products:


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